In astonishingly simple terms, there are three general strategies used. You need to be agile enough to switch techniques quickly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of building a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you might manage, to block in the competitor’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most suitable procedure at the begining of the match. You can create the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the match advances.
The Blitz
This involves locking your home board as quickly as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early two and moves one piece from your one-point to your three-point and you then roll a 5-5, you will be able to play 6/1 six/one 8/3 eight/three. Your opposer is then in big-time calamity taking into account that they have 2 pieces on the bar and you have closed half your home board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or more anchors in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor is a position consisting of at least two of your pieces.) It would be employed when you are significantly behind as it much improves your chances. The strongest locations for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s smaller points and also on adjoining points or with one point in between. Timing is crucial for a powerful backgame: after all, there is no point having two nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own home board if you are then required to break up this straight away, while your competitor is getting their pieces home, seeing that you don’t have any other spare checkers to move! In this situation, it is more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to maintain your position until your opponent provides you an opportunity to hit, so it will be a good idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this case!
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